Difference between revisions of "Kenmore 110.62832100"
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==About== | ==About== | ||
| − | [[category:hardware]][[category:appliances]]The [[ | + | [[category:hardware]][[category:appliances]]The [[Kenmore 110.62832100]] is an electric clothes-dryer. |
| − | A full service manual for the "110." models may be purchased for download at [http://www.davesrepair.com/pdfmanuals/km27indrymanual.htm Dave'sRepair] ''(is this legal? -{{woozle/init}})'' | + | A full service manual for the "110." models may be purchased for download at [http://www.davesrepair.com/pdfmanuals/km27indrymanual.htm Dave'sRepair] ''(is this legal? -{{woozle/init}})'' or from [[Sears Parts]]. |
| − | == | + | ==Diagrams== |
[[File:Sears Kenmore dryer p4 parts diagram.png|300px]] | [[File:Sears Kenmore dryer p4 parts diagram.png|300px]] | ||
[[File:Sears Kenmore dryer p4 parts list.png|300px]] | [[File:Sears Kenmore dryer p4 parts list.png|300px]] | ||
| + | [[File:Kenmore dryer wiring diagram.png|300px]] | ||
| + | ==Notes== | ||
| + | ===thermal fuse=== | ||
| + | Twice now, the heat cutoff thermal fuse (part # [[279816]], "cutoff-thermal") has blown, preventing the heat from coming on. The manual does not mention this as a possibility when diagnosing "no heat". The unit should have continuity at normal temperatures. (It essentially "blows" if the heat gets too high, and has to be replaced. This is often due to blockage in the vent pipe, though we're not sure what is causing it in our dryer.) It is located high up on the cowling of the heater coil. To test if it is the only problem, you can temporarily connect its two wires together, bypassing the part -- but do not operate the dryer for more than a minute or so with this configuration, as there will be no safeguard against dangerous overheating. | ||
| + | |||
| + | This part was $26 from Sears in 2010 (sold as a kit with another part which they say you have to install too, but I have never bothered). | ||
| + | |||
| + | Note that the heater coil takes 20-30 seconds to heat up enough so that you can see it glowing (it is visible through a hole in the top of the cowling). A good test is to set the heat to "high" and use the timed dry, which presumably bypasses the moisture sensor (in case that is causing problems). | ||
| + | |||
| + | --[[User:Woozle|Woozle]] 21:51, 27 January 2010 (UTC) | ||
| + | ===thermostat=== | ||
| + | The manual seemed to indicate that there were two thermostats, and that they both should have continuity. Our dryer only has one thermostat (part #[[3387134]], "thermostat") with 4 terminals; I initially presumed that each pair of terminals corresponded to a different (internal, integrated) thermostat and that therefore both pairs of terminals should have continuity -- but this turned out not to be the case: only the long-axis pair (red wires) has continuity. A brand new replacement part does not have continuity across the minor-axis pair (violet wires). --[[User:Woozle|Woozle]] 01:39, 28 January 2010 (UTC) | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===temperature switch=== | ||
| + | The manual shows two possible temperature switches; neither of them matches the one on our unit. | ||
| + | |||
| + | It looks like this: | ||
| + | {| | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | '''–<small>1</small>–''' || || '''–<small>2</small>–''' | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | || '''–<small>3</small>–''' || '''–<small>4</small>–''' | ||
| + | |} | ||
| + | |||
| + | And the connections work like this (each cell lists what that terminal connects to in that mode): | ||
| + | {| | ||
| + | ! || style="width: 3em;" | 1 || style="width: 3em;" | 2 || style="width: 3em;" | 3 || style="width: 3em;" | 4 | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | low || || style="text-align: center;" | 3 || style="text-align: center;" | 2,4 || style="text-align: center;" | 3 | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | med || style="text-align: center;" | 3 || style="text-align: center;" | 3 || style="text-align: center;" | 1,2 || | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | mhi || || style="text-align: center;" | 3 || style="text-align: center;" | 2 || | ||
| + | |- | ||
| + | | hi || || || style="text-align: center;" | 4 || style="text-align: center;" | 3 | ||
| + | |} | ||
| + | --[[User:Woozle|Woozle]] 00:12, 28 January 2010 (UTC) | ||
Latest revision as of 01:40, 28 January 2010
About
The Kenmore 110.62832100 is an electric clothes-dryer.
A full service manual for the "110." models may be purchased for download at Dave'sRepair (is this legal? -W) or from Sears Parts.
Diagrams
Notes
thermal fuse
Twice now, the heat cutoff thermal fuse (part # 279816, "cutoff-thermal") has blown, preventing the heat from coming on. The manual does not mention this as a possibility when diagnosing "no heat". The unit should have continuity at normal temperatures. (It essentially "blows" if the heat gets too high, and has to be replaced. This is often due to blockage in the vent pipe, though we're not sure what is causing it in our dryer.) It is located high up on the cowling of the heater coil. To test if it is the only problem, you can temporarily connect its two wires together, bypassing the part -- but do not operate the dryer for more than a minute or so with this configuration, as there will be no safeguard against dangerous overheating.
This part was $26 from Sears in 2010 (sold as a kit with another part which they say you have to install too, but I have never bothered).
Note that the heater coil takes 20-30 seconds to heat up enough so that you can see it glowing (it is visible through a hole in the top of the cowling). A good test is to set the heat to "high" and use the timed dry, which presumably bypasses the moisture sensor (in case that is causing problems).
--Woozle 21:51, 27 January 2010 (UTC)
thermostat
The manual seemed to indicate that there were two thermostats, and that they both should have continuity. Our dryer only has one thermostat (part #3387134, "thermostat") with 4 terminals; I initially presumed that each pair of terminals corresponded to a different (internal, integrated) thermostat and that therefore both pairs of terminals should have continuity -- but this turned out not to be the case: only the long-axis pair (red wires) has continuity. A brand new replacement part does not have continuity across the minor-axis pair (violet wires). --Woozle 01:39, 28 January 2010 (UTC)
temperature switch
The manual shows two possible temperature switches; neither of them matches the one on our unit.
It looks like this:
| –1– | –2– | |
| –3– | –4– |
And the connections work like this (each cell lists what that terminal connects to in that mode):
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| low | 3 | 2,4 | 3 | |
| med | 3 | 3 | 1,2 | |
| mhi | 3 | 2 | ||
| hi | 4 | 3 |
--Woozle 00:12, 28 January 2010 (UTC)